Saturday, 5 October 2013

Amalfi Coast Day 3 - Olive oil mill and Mozzarella cheese factory, Sorrento

Having had a look at the weather forecast for the weekend, I thought I should plan for some back up plan in case it rains!
I found this "Gastronomical tour" that picks us up from Amalfi, driving us to the mozzarella cheese factory, old olive oil mill, limoncello factory as well as goes wine tasting near mount vesuvius.
The quote we had was 410 euro for two!!!!!!
Wayyyyy too expensie I find.  Apparently the main cost was the pick up.

I've decided to shop around and found out I could actually contact the mozzarella cheese factory ( http://www.caseificiomichelangelo.com/ ) and the olive oil mill ( www.frantoiogargiulo.com ) directly!
The cheese factory contacted us back and offered the following tour:

MEDITERRANEAN TRIO!      Mozzarella-Limoncello-Olive Oil – half day TOUR!
1.  Mozzarella Tasting + demonstration
• Bits of mozzarella 
• Smoked bit of mozzarella 
• Caciottine 
• Ricotta
• Slice of  aged cheese “caciocavallo”
• Slice of cheese “Moscione” 
• Slice of  smoked provola
• Slice of Provolone del Monaco 
• Bruschetta with fresh butter
• Bread
• Water & red wine included

Price per person : 30 Euro ( Adult)        15 Euro  (4-8 years Child)

Price includes:
• Guided Tour @ the cheese factory
• Hands-on cheese demonstration
• Explanation  of the entire process  
• Making your own mozzarella
• Disposable kit to wear
• Final tasting of all our specialites in our welcoming tasting room
• Roundtrip transfer from/to the hotel(if located in Sorrento downtown) or local train station for individuals

2. Limoncello factory - a taste of the famous Limoncello of Sorrento
 The tour takes about 30 minutes
PRICE PER PERSON :15 euro( including transportation to/from  Sorrento)

3.Another fascinating tour is the OLIVE OIL TOUR.
Visit the oldest Olive oil manufacturers in Sorrento which is renowned for the DOP olive oil in the area, in fact the quality has been certified from the EU Agricultural department,
Explanation of the old style production compared with the new state of the art process. 
Final tasting of more than 10 different kind of aromatic oils with bread.
The admission to the oil mill is totally free. You will pay just the transfer to reach it up to Sorrento’s hills.

PRICE PER PERSON: 10 EURO

So we signed up for it, took the sita bus to Piano di Sorrento.
Sara from Caseificio Michelangelo picked us up and first drove us to the olive oil mill.
so they used to grind the olive with the stone on the left, squeeze out the oil from the paste on the right with the help of donkeys.  

Unfortunately they haven't harvested the olives yet as they werent quite ready.
so none of the machines were running..
The owner kindly talked us through the process anyway with photos taken last year.
we were then given a big basket of bread and nearly 20 diff olive oils to try!

Didn't know just plain extra olive oil - there are quite a few to choose from already.
Then you've got the flavoured ones - chilli, lemon, orange, herbs, truffles etc. 

Next stop is the mozzarella factory :) 
We were shown the whole production process and we were given the chance to mould the mozzarella cheese ourselves :p

It was made with cow's milk - adding rennet (from sheep's stomach) to coagulate the milk!

All the water was squeezed out - leaving blocks of curd - looking a bit like tofu

The curd are blended and melted


Forming little mozzarella balls using the machine

They can put a few mozzarella balls together and shaped it quickly under hot water.
e.g. plait

Little flower

Some of them are sold fresh, some are hanged to mature for a few days/ weeks 


Cheese tasting

It was still pouring with rain when it finished :(
we walked around sorrento town and there isn't much to see really..
thankfully it stopped and so we took the bus to Positano after that :)

Friday, 4 October 2013

Amalfi Coast Day 2 - Ristorante Eolo, Amalfi

The joy of going off season is that you don't have to fight the crowd :) 
Never need to book any restaurant and cheaper hotel!
I could imagine it would be hard to get a table in summer

We found this little restaurant from tripadvisor (note: the map on tripadvisor is wrong!)
It's just by the coast at Amalfi (towards Atrani) 
We've got a little table by the window :)
would have been even better if we could get a table on the terrace though

It's not a very big restaurant - probably around 10 tables.

Breads! : Milk bun with tomato/ aubergene mousse
Bread stick - plain and with squid ink

Amuse bouche : Clam on top of some creamy potato, Octopus wrapped around with crispy net

Stuffed squid 
It was OK... not sure what they've put inside looks a bit like spring onion.
It's slightly blend...

Crayfish with candied lemon peel, gin and tonic sorbet
never had such a big cray fish before! It was goooood
The lemon sauce was a little sweet - not sure if it does really go well with the crayfish.
The gin and tonic sorbet is lovely as well - but served with the starter?!?!?!

Salt baked white fish! 
Heard of it and have always wanted to try it out.  

Looks like a really big fish at first....

after removing the salt crust


removing the skin and bone ...

That's it :p ? 
It was very moist
I was worried that it might be very salty but it was perfectly seasoned.
Simple flavour... drizzled with olive oil


Clam Spaghetti
The spaghetti is thicker than normal - great texture
Clams were fresh
We found they've put a tad too much olive oil tho.. slightly too greasy


We were too full for dessert but was given this little chocolate ball

The service was attentive and professional
Overall we really enjoy the meal
http://www.eoloamalfi.it/

Amalfi Coast Day 2 - Capri boat tour

The hotel booked the Capri tour for us.   Here's the description we had: 
It is a complete excursion along the Amalfi Coast and Capri Island. You start at 9.30 am and finish at 6.00 pm. On the way to Capri you see many places along the coastline ( Sophia Loren's Villa, the Natural Arch, the Emerald Grotto, the lovely bay of Conca de Marini, the Fjord of Furore, Praiano and Positano from the sea) You stop in Natural Reserve of Punta Campanella and Li Galli Island, famous for the myth of Ulysse's Syrens. When you arrive in Capri you make a tour of Island (Blue,White,Green and Coral Grottoes, Punta Carena, Marina Piccola, Faraglioni's rocks and many places.)
Have 4 hours free time on the island. When you back on board you stop in Faraglioni and Positano for take a swimming if you want, and back to Amalfi at 6.00 pm. The price is 75 Euro per person and the price included drinks and towels on board and tax for live one day Capri. 
The only charged extra are the tickets for visit Emerald Grotto( 5 Euro per person) and Blue Grotto in Capri( 12,50 Euro per person)because are privates caves. The boat is a yacht (12 mt, toilet, changing room, two sundeck, two showers, cover sitting area) maximum 10 people on board.

The other option to Capri 
We really enjoyed our trip :) would highly recommend it! 

Here's our boat on the right with a sunbed at the back 

Bye Bye Amalfi



Emerald Grotto
- quite a small grotto, still very magnificent! 




We went on towards Capri
Green Grotto 


We were going to go to the blue grotto but it was closed :(

We were then dropped off at Marina Piccolo: 
- very pretty little pebble beach! you can see the faraglioni from here



Lazy little cat by the cafe

It was quite a nice but tiring walk up to the Capri town

Capri town was veryyyyyyyyyyyyyyy packed! 
We didn't really want to spend too much time comparing / looking for a decent restaurant as we don't have much time there.  So we just chose one randomly.
The restaurant we went was called Ristorante Isidoro.
Don't go! The food and service were so-so.
I'm sure there are better restaurants there.
In fact, we saw a restaurant on the way to Arco Naturale with amazing view
wish we went there instead

We followed the sunflower guide to walk to the Arco Naturale from the funicular station.

So beautiful :) 

Arco Naturale from the sea! couldn't believe how much we have climbed!


Beautiful flowers on the way

On the way back, we went by the faraglioni and went through the arch :)


White grotto


Bye Bye Capri

We went past the pretty Positano


Apparently people dive from this bridge at Furore! 

Thursday, 3 October 2013

Amalfi Coast Day 1 - Ristorant Savo, Atrani

We landed around 3pm and organized transfer to the hotel
We thought about taking public transport or even driving.  We are so glad that we didn't at the end. 

Public transport to Amalfi is a pain after the peak season - reduced service + no ferry! 
you have to take the Alibus to the train station, then take the train to Salerno and Sita bus to Amalfi 
Taking you nearly 3 hours.  
(There's also bus that brings you directly to Salerno from Naples airport but the bus only runs every 4 hours and we've just missed one)

Driving along the Amalfi coast requires a lot of gut.   
The winding roads are narrow and you can't really see if there's a car (and possibly a bus!) coming along at the bend.  That's why they usually honk when approaching the bend. 
I've noticed 99% of the cars were scratched / with bumps. 
We have also read lots of bad reviews of the car hire company at Naples - not returning your deposit / charging you too much. 
Given parking is also a concern (it costs 20 euro per day to park at Amalfi), we have decided to go for taxi at the end. 

It only took us 1.5 hrs to get to the resort by taxi - costing 110 euro though :S 
Amalfi is quite a busy little town but I feel it is good as a base. 

On the first night, we walked to Atrani based on the route advised by the sunflower guide
(It is a very helpful guide! - great description and it covers most towns along the coast) 

It was just a short walk along narrow alleyways behind people's houses with some great view of the coast along the way


Atrani is a very small village - nothing overly exciting but it's quieter than Amalfi which we liked. 
It was about 15min walk from the duomo? 

We went into a restaurant on the main piazza recommended by tripadvisor (#2)


Nice view into the piazza.  

Many things on the menu sound very interesting but I have to say I was disappointed. 
Feels like the chef really wanted to be creative.  But when you mentioned a flavour/ingredient in the description - you would expect to be able to taste it somehow.  I'm not saying it has to be overpoweringly strong, just a tiny hint of it would do.  
Not sure if it's because we ordered to wrong stuff on the menu.. people seems to rave about their pasta dishes..
Anyhow, the food was beautifully presented - seems like the chef decorated the white plate with squid ink

Poached seafood with greentea 
- there's a bed of calamari at the bottom, with clams/mussels 
It was ok but lack of flavour

Marinated Salmon

Chicken with butter sauce 
- lavender was mentioned in the description but couldn't taste any again

- poach fish in vanilla pod and saffron, seasonal veg with some lemon peels
couldn't taste vanilla again.  

This was the highlight of the meal
The lemon cake was warm and fluffy.  with very strong lemon fragrant.

Pear and ricotta - the classic combination 
I felt it was a little too frozen and crumbly... not sure if it is supposed to be this way? 

Walking back in the evening...
so beautiful :)